A Voyage Back in Time Along Scotland’s Caledonian Canal

South Carolinians Derek Fyfe and Lucy Hoover are frequently drawn to Great Britain: it is in their DNA – the blood of the English and the Scots course through them, as it does in Lucy’s brother, Jim Cordner. The earliest chieftains of Derek’s Clan MacDuff were known as the Earls of Fife. Shakespeare memorializes the clan when Macbeth cries, “Lay on, MacDuff,” as he issues his challenge near the end of the literary masterpiece. By killing the tyrant Macbeth, MacDuff becomes a hero. Lucy and Jim’s Clan Ferguson were a bit more unruly. They were known to occasionally behead their most disagreeable neighbors and befriend the region’s most notorious criminals. Buried amongst the tombstones of their Ferguson ancestors rests the infamous outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor, a friend of the clan but a feared enemy of the English.

Today, the broad expanse of Culloden Moor, the solemn site of that fateful battle, remains mysterious and secretive. The ghosts of the rebels who died here still beckon. Here lie members of Clan Ferguson and Clan Stewart, the descendants of the MacDuffs. However, when they visited where their ancestors had fallen, Derek, Lucy, and Jim would not be alone. Close friends and family would be with them. Derek’s wife, Inger, Lucy’s husband, Ray, and Jim’s friend, Susan Adamec, were there, as were fellow South Carolina residents Carol Ann and Michael Hoffman. Jim and Susan are from north-eastern Pennsylvania.

Our journey back through Scottish history would follow a natural geological fault line connecting the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea along the iconic Caledonian Canal. We would begin west at Banavie, upriver of Fort William, and progress northeastward, ending at Muirtown near Inverness. European Waterways would transport us, and our vehicle for the six-day adventure would be the Scottish Highlander, a 117-foot-long, 100-ton converted Dutch barge. A dedicated crew of four from the far reaches of the United Kingdom would get us there in pampered comfort.

Declan, our Captain, and his wife, Aishling, hostess and master wine steward from Ireland, skillfully orchestrated our week’s activities. Seasoned expert pilot Simon babied his boat like a doting father and, when it looked impossible, could maneuver the big barge into the tiniest of spaces. India, our chef extraordinaire from southern England but trained in the shadows of the French Alps, stunned us daily with the menus she would unveil. Her culinary mastery of Scottish fish, wild venison, beef, and lamb, complemented with the freshest local produce, resulted in some of the most creative dishes we have ever had or will ever have. And through the crew’s masterful coordination and Derek’s songwriting ability, Lucy would celebrate a memorable milestone birthday with great friends and family. This dedicated crew’s diverse backgrounds, unlimited energy, and the unique talents they each bring to the Scottish Highlander made our journey one we will never forget.

The depth of our Highlands experience would grow with every mile we traveled along the winding canal. Traversing across each of its panoramic lakes or lochs and through its stair-stepping locks surrounded by the wild expanse of the rugged landscape instilled a much deeper appreciation of the soul of its people past and present. Early in the journey, we learned of the critical role of Scotland’s canals and the intricacies of premium Scottish Whisky at Ben Nevis Distillery. We explored remote Eilean Donan, the picturesque island fortress featured in Highlander and James Bond’s The World Is Not Enough.

Mid-week, our immersion in Scottish culture accelerated. Bagpiper and master kiltmaker Alan Beith came aboard, sharing his in-depth knowledge of traditional Scottish dress and impressing us with his musical skills in taming the impossibly difficult instrument. Later, local folk musicians Stuart and Sean entertained us with traditional tunes of the Highlands. During our search on Loch Ness for its infamous monster, we paused on its banks for a fascinating hands-on demonstration of falconry and other native birds of prey. And at week’s end, we toured another culturally significant structure, Cawdor Castle, also immortalized in Shakespeare’s Macbeth.

After six days, our eyes had been opened. We had learned to look beyond the picturesque images on the postcards tourists casually collect as they quickly pass through. Instead, we learned to appreciate this untamed land through the eyes of those who live here and the ancestors who inhabited this place long before us. Though those rebellious Scottish clans lost the pivotal battle at Culloden, their echoes still reverberate across the mountains and over the lochs of the dramatic Highlands landscape. Even in defeat, they would never lose the fierce spirit of who they were then, nor would their descendants lose the immense pride of who they had become. The raw beauty of the wild, natural environment and the fierce independence of its people are ingrained in the Scottish spirit. And the battle cries of two clans at Culloden almost three centuries earlier will resonate with the Scots and their descendants forever … “Hold Fast!” and “Forget Not!”

About the Author

After six million miles, almost 2,000 trips to seven continents, 65 countries, and nine passports whose 421 pages are filled with thousands of stamps and visas, Ray Hoover and his wife, Lucy, have shared their most memorable adventures with close friends and family. They currently live in South Carolina’s Lowcountry on Seabrook Island near Charleston. Before his retirement, Ray was a practicing architect.