A Luxury Barge Cruise in Burgundy by Johanna Castro: Part One

Sunday Day 1 - Dijon to Chalon-sur-Saône

At 4pm on Sunday, we’re met in Dijon at the stately Grand Hotel La Cloche by Mathias, our Captain, who is at once smiling, friendly and helpful.

He drives us in a comfy, well maintained European Waterways minibus to the hotel barge Finesse moored alongside a riverbank in a quiet position near the centre of Chalon-sur-Saône , a small town in the centre of Burgundy.

It takes just under an hour to get there, and in this time, we get to know our fellow travellers, just 4 other guests on this trip (although the barge can accommodate a total of 8 guests).

Our welcome on the barge is nothing but five star. We meet Will our tour guide, Diana and Luna our hostesses, and Arnie our private chef, who are all on deck to greet us with smiling introductions… and a glass of champagne.

Inside the salon (lounge area) Arnie has prepared plates of exquisite canapés, some with caviar others with a delicious local goat’s cheese, all garnished from his barge ‘garden’ (the window boxes strapped to the barge rails).

We’re shown to our cabins which are truly spacious and luxurious, each with a comfy king size bed or twin beds, and three choices of pillow.

The rooms are carpeted in a mink coloured, soft carpeting. There’s a wooden wardrobe and a dressing table, side tables with bedside lamps. It’s all very elegant, functional, and totally luxurious.

The bathrooms are spacious and modern. There are upmarket amenities (L’Occitane), white fluffy dressing gowns and slippers. Not to mention welcome packs that include caps, tote bags and water bottles on the bed.

We freshen up, some of us change for dinner, and at around 7pm we’re treated to the most delicious cordon bleu meal. Four courses paired with different wines of the region.

The chat around the table is lively, and our fellow bargers, who hail from America, are all really friendly and fun.

Chalon-sur-Saône is a picturesque town in central Burgundy between Dijon and Macon, and although it’s Burgundy’s second city after Dijon, perhaps it isn’t on the well-trodden mass tourist trail … just lovely!!

After dinner we take a moonlight stroll to the bridge spanning the river, and by the light of the moon walk around the streets of Chalon-sur-Saône .

We discover the town hall (Place de l’Hotel de Ville) and beautiful, ancient half-timbered houses that seem scattered around the picturesque Saint-Vincent Square, a square dominated by the 11th century Cathedral Saint Vincent.

Later I find out that Saint Vincent is the patron saint of winemakers. Aha! I hope he’ll be looking over my shoulder on this cruise!

I speculate that in the daytime you might be tempted to sit at a pavement cafe in Saint Vincent Square, which has been the heart of the city for more than 800 years, and gaze at the picturesque houses, and do like the French do – watch the passing parade while sipping a steaming hot espresso, and enjoying a freshly baked, flaky croissant.

Cross one of the three bridges crossing the River Saône and you’ll come to Ile Saint Laurent which is situated in the centre of the river, and used to house the city’s former hospital. It still houses the Doyenne Tower.

We’re told that during the Second World War the river was the boundary between Nazi occupied and Vichy controlled France, and the sad fact is that many families living in Chalon were separated by order – yet by no more than the river running in between them.

We have a nightcap in the salon, and a quick chat with our fellow travellers, before turning in to our comfortable beds.

I can’t wait to begin barging tomorrow!

Monday Day 2 - Chalon-sur-Saône to Fragnes

By day 2 you’re in no doubt that you’re on a slow voyage of discovery, an intimate journey, a slow dive into a culture and a landscape.

As I draw the curtains across our cabin porthole the river laps in glassy waves, almost up to the window. A larger river cruise boat glides past creating a swell. We’re still on the river, but later we’ll be turning onto the Canal du Centre where only small vessels are permitted.

Dave goes for a walk into Chalon-sur-Saône . It’s raining so I stay snug on the barge.

Breakfast is served in the salon. It’s a varied and delicious buffet with a cooked breakfast to follow.

The day begins with a slow cruise along the river and later in the morning we turn onto the Canal du Centre heading towards Fragnes. Completed in 1792, this canal was originally built to serve coal mines, and now it provides a gentle passage for pleasure craft.

We chat with Captain Mathias up at the Wheelhouse as rain comes down, harder now. In Western Australia we are not used to this wet stuff falling – so no complaints! We enjoy it!

After some gentle cruising we come to our first lock. 30 feet high it’s the second deepest lock in France; the Écluse de Crissey. It’s an intriguing sight and experience as Will and Mathias expertly navigate the extremely deep, narrow passage. We all inwardly breathe in as Finesse glides into the lock, not a centimetre to spare.

After a fabulous 3 course lunch with paired wines, we’re driven through rolling countryside and quiet roads to the Chateau of Germolles.

This is a privately owned chateau dating back to the 13th century, and it’s one of the best preserved private residences of the Dukes of Burgundy, namely that of Philippe the Bold and Catherine of Flanders.

We’re given a private tour by the owner himself, who is flamboyant and passionate in his descriptions as we march back through time. It’s absolutely fascinating. An entire wing has been reconstructed to depict how it would have been in the past – amazingly in 2016 they uncovered and renovated some of the 13th century painting on the walls.

What was it like growing up between these hallowed walls we ask our host, as we are teased with his tales of finding secret cupboards, ancient passageways and stories of olde.

After an afternoon of history brought to life we are driven back to the barge through quaint villages and verdant pastures. We’re met by Diana and immediately served a refreshing cocktail, accompanied by some tasty canapes.

And then it’s a little rest, change of clothes, and champagne before the most sumptuous 4 course dinner paired with excellent wines of the region.

What an amazing day it’s been!

Tuesday Day 3 - Fragnes to Rully

Hooray! The skies cleared this morning, and the wet stuff, that we don’t get much of in WA, stopped!

So we leap up as fast as our old bones will let us, and take a walk along the tow path.

The Canal du Centre twists between wheat and corn fields sometimes with vines stretching to the horizon, so the opportunity to get off the barge and stretch our legs is always welcome.

Along route we have a chat with an old man and his dog, mostly in French (which surprised us both – and the dog!) and we gathered that he said the weather would stay clear until tonight. Or maybe not!! A few words of French goes a long way, and I’m glad we at least try a little bit to be local rather than altogether foreign.

When you’re dreamily cruising along, you often feel as if you’re in the middle of beautiful nowhere. So it’s good to see a signpost or two when walking along the towpath!

Meanwhile our barge, Finesse, lay sleeping on the opposite bank, a sleek lady painted in a blue livery, just waking up, with breakfast being prepared by our lovely crew.

After breakfast we drive with Will and Mathias to the pretty village of Nuits Saint George, and on to what we are told is the most expensive vineyard in the world : Romanée-Conti in Vosne Romanee.

Recognized worldwide as one of Burgundy’s finest vineyards it dates back to the 11th century and is probably the most hallowed name in Burgundian wine, and quite possibly the entire vinous world! It contains 8 hectares of vines producing wines that sell for about EU25,000 (AUD40,000) a bottle. The most expensive bottle of wine ever sold was Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 1945 – Price: $558,000.

We learn about the confrerie des Chevaliers de Tastevin founded in 1934 in Nuits Saint Georges. The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin acquired the Château in 1945, and started to restore it, turning it into the seat of the Order which has all sorts of traditions, ceremonies and gourmet banquets throughout the year.

The Château du Clos de Vougeot is an imposing building set in the heart of Burgundy’s vineyards. Originally a wine farm it was built in the 12th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux. In the 16th century a Renaissance style château was added to the existing buildings.

With its medieval vat-house and wine presses, a Cistercian cellar and original kitchens, it’s a fabulous step back in time. We were awed by the enormous ancient wine presses dating back to the14th century which were last used around the time of WW1. Such history!

Afterwards we travel back to Finesse for a refreshing glass of freshly made lemonade with mint leaves, before enjoying a sumptuous lunch.

The salon on Finesse is such a bright, relaxing place, equipped with modern furniture and lots of useful reading material, plus information on the route and what you might see. It’s a beautiful area to sit and watch the world of Burgundy go by.

So in the afternoon we sit back and relax on deck as Burgundy floats past. I’m beginning to understand that it’s a majestic mosaic of lands with its roots dating back to the Middle Ages.

The weather holds, and we are keen to get out and explore this land first hand. Will lifts two bikes down onto the canal bank and off we go for a lovely long lazy ride along the tow path while Finesse navigates a series of locks on our way to our mooring for the night.

Later on, just before dinner we’re treated to canapes, plus a musical surprise: A private jazz performance. A jazz trio sets up in the lounge area and we’re entertained with dulcet tunes, and traditional songs, all accompanied by Arnie’s delicious canapés, and champagne cocktails…

Barge Cruise Review - Fast Facts

Johanna Castro and her husband Dave cruised aboard hotel barge Finesse, which cruises the Canal du Centre and the River Saône in Burgundy. The cruise begins on a Sunday afternoon and ends on Saturday morning. Guests are picked up and dropped off in Dijon. It’s a wonderful city to spend a few days exploring prior to, or after the cruise.

The pace is slow and leisurely, the excursions are fascinating, and the food and wine are phenomenal.

The couple flew from Australia to Paris and then caught the fast train to Dijon (the capital of Burgundy) and spent two wonderful days exploring the city prior to the canal cruise.

Watch this space for Part Two of Johanna’s Luxury Barge Cruise in Burgundy, where she’ll discover the ancient city of Autun, traverse a whopping 11 locks, and bid farewell to all at the Captain’s Farewell Dinner…